Stacks of flour sacks, imported cans of Marzano tomatoes and rows of Italian wines — in addition to Frank Sinatra tunes wafting through the sound system — help set the scene.

All the appetizers are appealing, from the smoked mozzarella to meatballs, from house-marinated olives to spiedini: mozzarella balls wrapped with prosciutto. We settled on the pagliasotti ($15) since it combined several components in one beautiful plate: caprese salad with fresh basil, finely cut salami, olives, flatbread, pesto, marinated mushrooms, thinly sliced new potatoes, polenta and marble-size yellow peppers that not only added more color but also a hint of heat.

The handful of salad options adds to the difficulty of making a selection, but we knew we wanted pizza. The insalata cuneo ($9) is a take on a wedge salad but, instead of iceberg lettuce, it incorporates baby romaine. It’s topped with bits of salami, blue cheese, diced tomatoes and a house- made white balsamic vinaigrette. It’s easy to share but also could be a meal unto itself.

The pizzas are also shareable, depending if one is being greedy. Fortunately, my dining companions, who made the selections, agreed to share. Had I been ordering, I was tempted by the daily special, which included grilled chicken, tomatoes, red onion and the house-made mozzarella. I hope it will appear on the chalkboard again. There is, however, a pizza with braised chicken on the menu: formaggi e pollo ($15.50) with rosemary, crushed Marzano tomatoes, red onion and pistachios. I am sure that could suffice.

The Cinque Formaggi ($15) is more than simply five cheeses, although only four are listed: sharp provolone, house-made mozzarella, fontina and gran padrano. The latter is nutty like Parmigiano-Reggiano. What makes this more than a cheese pizza is the roasted garlic that works its way to the palate like a slow-moving car in a traffic jam; however, it’s far more enjoyable.

The Verdure ($15) is essentially a veggie pizza with paper-thin zucchini slices, roasted red peppers and red onions, black Italian olives and those crushed Marzano tomatoes.

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